A glorious array of rice crackers made with love and care

Ganko Shokunin rice snacks are considered works of art. On the rear of the packages, and also on the product leaflet, can be found the names of the artisans responsible for each snack. At Ganko Shokunin, we are introduced to Mr. Shigetomo, who makes the genkotsu, and Mr. Takao, who makes the oiso.

Shigetomo currently uses a variety of mochi rice called Himenomochi from Iwate prefecture. It is a high-quality variety that tastes very good even in mochi form.
“The mochi flavor gradually gets lost in the production process,” says Shigetomo, “so unless we start with strongly flavored mochi rice, the end product becomes flavorless.” This explains why the selection of mochi rice is seen as very important.

The design of the manufacturing process can have a significant influence on the flavor and even the texture of the finished okaki.
After steaming the rice, Shigetomo pounds it with a mallet. “Some places use a combined steaming and kneading machine, but we prefer to steam the rice completely first before kneading it with the mallet,” explains Shigetomo. “This produces a better result in terms of flavor and also helps it to puff up nicely in the oven.”
After pounding, the mochi dough is formed into flat cakes. These are refrigerated for about four days to firm up, which gives the baked okaki the requisite chewy texture.

Baking is the one of the key processes that determine the taste of the finished product. The mochi pieces are arranged on wire netting high above the heat source and grilled very gently. Shigetomo turns the pieces over frequently to ensure even distribution of heat. “For optimum flavor you have to let the dough breath during the baking process so that the flavor elements escape into the air then are absorbed into the center of the okaki,” adds Shigetomo.
It is clear that Shigetomo is highly dedicated to his mission of making the best possible okaki. His genkotsu artwork represents a unique combination of flavor and texture that gives expression to his creativity.

Our next interview is with Mr. Takao, maker of the oiso rice cracker. Making okaki is a family business for Takao, with older brother Shinko and nephew Yuji both involved.
Like Shigetomo, they prefer to steam the mochi rice fully before kneading. They also dry the mochi pieces the traditional way, by laying them out in the sun.
“Pounding the mochi rice brings out the flavor in the rice,” Yuji explains, “and sun drying extends the flavor right into the center of each piece.”

The most difficult aspect of sun-dried okaki is ensuring consistency of quality throughout the four seasons of the year.
If the weather takes a turn for the worse, everybody has to stop what they are doing and rush outside to get the mochi pieces back in before it starts to rain.
But Takao is certain that it is worth the effort. Looking at the pride on his beaming face, one can sense a commonality with the wonderful taste of the oiso with its perfect combination of nori seaweed and mochi rice.

It was 40 years ago that Ganko Shokunin was launched, and already some of the producers have started the process of handing over the business to the younger generation. There is even an association of second-generation Ganko Shokunin artisans, who have learned the skills of the trade from their parents and made the commitment to carrying on the family business. These people will bring their own ideas and modern sensibilities to the noble art of the okaki rice cracker.
Nagai is thrilled that so many of the next generation have risen to the challenge of taking over the business of making rice snacks. “The younger ones, they tend to get together with one another much more than in the old days,” says Nagai. “Sometimes I get invited to their meetings, and it’s always a lot of fun.”

Ganko Shokunin products are an ideal gift that convey the dedication and affection of the artisan producers and in turn provide an important insight into the finest aspects of Japanese tradition and culture.